Poland birdwatching

Day 01: Arrive Krakow. We start our bird quest in search of the eight species of woodpecker and four species of flycatcher found around the hotel. Amongst species found here that are now rare in Western Europe are Hawfinch, Barred Warbler, Icterine Warbler, Wood Lark and Short-toed Tree Creeper. This is also a good place to observe Pine and Stone Martens which often hunt Red Squirrels. We will lunch at a stylish old Polish restaurant and take a short sighseeing tour of the Old Town. In the afternoon we will visit a forest complex near Krakow where the magnificent Ural Owl is numerous and active by day. In fact, some unwary walkers have been dived at by them when venturing too close to a nest. After some unforgetable birdwatching we will go for dinner in the Old Town. There is also the chance of seeing Tawny and Long-eared Owls near the Hotel later in the evening.

Day 02: This is a very full day in the Upper Wisla River Valley and Goczalkowice Reservoir, including a break for lunch at an old stylish restaurant in an open-air folk museum. An hour's drive from Krakow there is an area with numerous fish ponds. Created by monks in the Middle Ages, today it forms an important wetland habitat for birds. Ideal for birdwatching, it has good access from a series of raised dykes. This area holds the record for the highest number of bird species found in Poland. It is here that we will see numerous nesting White Storks, symbol of the Polish countryside - and another bird which is the emblem of Poland - the White-tailed Eagle. All around the area Scarlet Rosefinches sing "pleased to meet you". The ponds are overgrown with reeds and have good numbers of Bittern and Little Bittern. Great White Egret, Little Egret and Spoonbill also occur here in large flocks as they gather to breed. Purple Herons also breed here, as do Black-crowned Night Herons which are the emblem of the region and the local ornithologist group. This is the only site in Poland with 200 nesting pairs. Four breeding species of Grebe are also present, including Red-necked and Black-necked. The colonies of Whiskered Tern here are the largest in Poland and there are good numbers of Black Tern. This is also an excellent site to observe a breeding colony of Pontic Gull (L. cachinans cachinans) plus a few pairs of Mediterranean Gull. Cormorant, Ferruginous Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Shoveler, Gadwall, Garganey and Greyleg Goose are also present with Wigeon, Pintail, Goosender and Goldeneye occuring on passage. Rails are well represented with numerous Corncrake, Water Rail and Spotted and Little Crakes. We often find the distinctive hanging nests of the Penduline Tit and see (and hear) Bearded Tit. The dense reedbeds hold, amongst others, many Warblers, including Reed, Great Reed, Savi's, Sedge, River and Grasshopper Warbler, and the highly attractive Bluethroat, in this case the white-spotted northern subspecies, Luscinia svecica svecica. Typically for this part of Europe there are good numbers of Golden Oriole that are often seen flying over the ponds as well as Marsh Harrier, Sparrowhawk and Goshawk. Red-backed and Great Grey Shrike are not uncommon and the Lesser Grey Shrike still occurs. Godwits, Redshank, Little Ringed and Ringed Plover are all abundant breeders in the nearby wet meadows and we usually expect to see single Marsh Sandpipers in flocks of Ruff, as well as Spotted Redshank, Green and Wood Sandpipers, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, and Temminck's and Little Stints. Jack Snipe and Red-throated Pipit are present to the end of May in the fishpond area. We also expect to see Citrine Wagtail, White-winged Black Tern and Whooper Swan which are also present on migration during spring. Nearby we will make a short stop to see European Bison in a very old forest close to the pretty town of Pszczyna. After this we overnight in Krakow.

Day 03: Today we drive north for an hour to the Nida Basin, an area south of Kielce, which offers a contrasting landscape of marshes and dry hills. This area holds some of the most beautiful countryside in Poland. It comprises unspoiled meadows, fens, fishponds and narrow strips of traditional farm fields all set in a rolling landscape. These unspoilt habitats hold an excellent range of wildlife, insects and plantsm including numerous splendid orchids. Unlike more intensively farmed parts of western Europe the Yellowhammer, Corn Bunting and Tree Sparrow are still very common here. Red-backed and Great Grey Shrike are also often seen overhead sitting on telegraph wires. Although Hen and Marsh Herriers are less numerous here than elsewhere, the second largest population of Montagu's Harrier in Poland occurs here. The Nida River and fishponds complexes hold Common Crane, Great White Egret, White-crowned Night Heron, numerous waterfowl such as Gadwall, Garganey and Shoveler, and Goosender in very good numbers. This is also one of the last sites in Poland where Red-crested Pochard still breed and offers a rare opportunity to possibly find Little Tern. Red-necked Grebe breed in every pond. Godwit, Redshank and Water Rail are common, as are Little and Spotted Crakes. Corncrake and Quail can be heard calling loudly in all the medows and there are good numbers of Barred, Savi's, River and Great Reed Warblers, and Penduline and Bearded Tits. This is also a good place to observe European Beaver. We break for lunch at a traditional Polish restaurant. On the way back to Krakow we will visit the Bledow Desert, an area of 32 square kilometres of sand dunes and overgrown vegetation which is the only desert in Western and Central Europe. The endemic plant, Coechleria polonica, grows here. An amazing path runs along the river bank into the sand where numerous birds nest such as Tawny Pipit, Northern Wheatear, Stonechat, Wood Lark, Hoopoe, Ortolan Bunting, Thrush Nightingale and a good number of Nightjars which we stay to watch as they become active in the evening. The last species of the day will be Barn and Little Owl as we return to our hotel in Krakow.

Day 04: Today we take the picturesque road to the Gorce Mountains National Park, a journey of approximately one hour. The Park occupies the central area of the Gorce Massif with the highest peak at Turbacz reaching 1310 metres. Forest covers 95% of the Park. The main lower subalpine level is dominated by Carpathian beech and the occasional fir and spruce. The highest part is over 1150 meters asl where spruce woods dominate the upper subalpine level. The charming subalpine meadows also found here have a wealth of rare plants. We will spend the day walking in the mountains with a break for lunch at a traditional mountain shelter. The Park is a good place to look for two rare species of Woodpecker: Three-toed and White-backed, both whit healthy populations here. The majestic Black and distinctive Grey-headed Woodpecker are also very common. We will also see Hazel Hen which can be attracted by whistling a special flute made of goose bone. Other highlights of Gorce will include Ring Ouzel, Nutcracker, Crossbill, Firecrest and Woodcock, which is often seen at dusk. The magnificent Ural Owl and tiny Pygmy Owl are also found her, as are the Dipper and Grey Wagtail which are abundant along various streams and can also be seen close to the Hotel. There are good populations of Red Deer here which help support local populations of Wolf and Lynx... both these species are very shy but it may be possible to get a glimpse of them. They are extremelly difficult to see but signs of their presence such as tracks and droppings are easy to find. We will also have the oppportunity to observe the attractive Fire Salamander plus four other amphibious species. The newt species present here include the endemic Triturus montadoni. After dinner we will look for Pygmy Owl with our local guide who attracts this very small Owl after a few minutes of calling. We overnight in a local hotel in the mountains.

Day 05: Travel to Pieniny National Park. This area of sharp limestone rock pillars that tower several hundred metres, mixed forest, old castles and hundreds of species of flowering plant is exceptionally charming. Endemics plants include Erismum pieninicum and Taraxacum pieninicum. This fabled garden lies in an area of 20 square kilometres and has meadows filled with sweet aromas and colourful insect-life such as the delicate Apollo Butterfly. There are also panoramic views of the Tatra Mountains with good opportunities to see raptors such as Honey Buzzard, Hobby, Peregrine Falcon, Golden Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle and increasingly from nearby Slovakia, Imperial Eagle. Wallcreeper and Rock Thrush also occur here in some years. It is also possible to raft down the spectacular Dunajec Gorge. The high vertical rocky cliffs look all the more impressive seen from traditional rafts paddled and steered by local mountaineers in colourful folk costumes. Black Storks and Pontic Gulls should accompany us during this part of the tour. We break for lunch in a stylish local restaurant. After a short rest we walk to a nearby rocky area inhabited by a pair of Eagle Owls where our local guide attracts them in the evening. After dinner we will relax to enjoy a bonfire and impressive display of mountain folk music. We overnight at the hotel in Pieniny.

Day 06: Early morning departure to Tatra National Park, a World Biosphere Reserve. The Tatra Mountains straddle Poland and Slovakia. The Polish part is divided into granite rocks on the high eastern area, and limestone in the lower western area. Changes in vegetation are quite visible with the increase in altitude with beech and fir lower down and spruce and dwarf pine shrubs further up above the timber line. Above this there are alpine meadows with creeping willows and rocks. The Tatras are the pre-eminent area for high mountain flora within the arc of the Carpathians. About 1300 species of vascular plants are found here including some western Carpathian endemics such as Cochlearia tatrae and Delphinium oxyspelatum. We will use the Cable Car to reach Kasprowy Wierch high above the clouds (1987 m) where Lesser Redpoll, Alpine Accentor, Water Pipit, Bluethroat (L.s.svecica), and in some years, Dotterel occur. This is also a good area for Chamois and Alpine Marmot which inhabit the higher slopes. After lunch we will visit one of the valleys in the western limestone section of the mountains where picturesque valleys with unusual rock formations and deep gorges have been created. Along with some beautiful caves. Birds found here include Ring Ouzel, Nutcracker and Greenish Warbler. We will visit a breeding site of the colourful Wallcreeper (all our groups have had good views of this species in good weather). There is also the possibility of seeing Brown Bears and Wolves which hunt for Red Deer and, sometimes, sheep. We will also be able to attract Corncrake which have been known to come to our feet during the evening. This will allow us to demonstrate how to catch and ring them safely. We overnight in Zakopane.

Day 07: Early morning we depart for Podhale where there is a huge area of peat bogs. There are patches of Sphagnum mosses overgrown by Marsh Tea, insect eating Sundews and Bog Pine which is a cross between Scotch and Dwarf Mountain Pine. This unusual landscape is a remanant of northern European Tundra, but is unfortunately remains unprotected and is sadly in some places exploited for peat extraction. This is the breeding site of a healthy population of Black Grouse. Their lekking behaviour can be clearly seen from a safe distance using a telescope. Common Snipe and Woodcock occur in very good numbers here and Common Crane 'bugle' loudly each morning. White tailed Eagle and Black Stork also breed in the forest on the Slovakian border. On the way back we will stop at Babia Gora National Park which is a World Biosphere Reserve (highest peak 1725 metres asl). It is important to note that in many places the forest here retain their primeval character with Dwarf Mountain Pine and alpine zone lichens present. Our target species here will be Capercaillie being the easiest place to find them in the Polish Carpathians. There are also numerous other interesting birds such as Ring Ouzel, Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor, Black Grouse, and Pygmy and Tengmalm's Owls. We overnight in Krakow.

Day 08: Leave for Kraków for departure home.

Extensions:

-There is an opportunity for a one to two day extension trip to Biebrza Marshes for Spotted Eagle, Aquatic Warbler and Citrine Wagtail with Great Snipe possible.

-Other optional visits can be arranged to the Hungarian Great Plain steppes (5 hours drive from Zakopane) for Graet Bustard, Squacoo Heron, Glossy Ibis, Pygmy Cormorant, Moustachd Warbler, Collared Pratinicole, Saker Falcon, Red footed Falcon, Lesser Grey Shrike, Short toed, Booted and Imperial Eagles, Bee eater, Black-winged Stilt, Scops Owl and a visit to Budapest.

-There are also plenty of historical monuments near Krakow such as the Salt Mine in Wieliczka and Oswiecim (Auschwitz-Birkenau), the largest of Nazi Concentration Camp of World War II. Czestochowa is a place of pilgrimage which is also very interesting. The painting of the Black Madonna hangs in the Pauline Monastery. The Kraków-Czestochowa Uplands are called the "Eagles Nests Route" which is full of medieval castles and unspoiled nature. There are many intersting monuments here including a Uniate Church in Debno built without any nails which is the only church where polychromy from 15th Century is still preserved. This is in the care of UNESCO and is one of the most beautiful examples of wooden architecture in Europe.

-Nature tours in the environs of Kraków may be undertaken from accommodation in the city. Each day the excursion will finish in time for you to spend evenings relaxing in the city pubs or restaurants. Travelling time to the most interesting places is given on the map. A second option is to spend 2-3 nights in Kraków and to visit only the closest regions to the city and then to stay closer to the wildest areas to allow more time for nature watching. Accommodation of a high standard is available. We recommend the reasonabley priced old style Pollera Hotel in the middle of the Old Town. It is also possible to stay in the better pensions (cheap but comfortable hotels) on the edge of the woods, which are rich in wildlife and still not far from the city centre. For budget travellers there are tourist class hotels in the Old Town or much cheaper hotels in Nowa Huta, the post-communist district of Kraków, which is now a tourist attraction. The air and train connections here are also good.